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Big Bore Electric Start Problem

schmuck

schmuck

Super Veteran
Johnny Tran said:
Hello guys, I'm new here and I only speak english so please help me if you can. My engine mods are:

UMA 62mm Block
30mm Carb with bigger jettings (not sure what size)
BRT CDI
Vixion Stage 2 Cams
AHM Pipe (newest model)

The problem now is that my bore is so big that it's hard to fire up using the electric starter so I have to frequently kick start but even that's a pain... My mechanics say that it's b/c I'm in high compression but I don't know what this means. Someone please explain to me what I can do so that I may use the electric starter again since I will be getting a full body fairing kit that will cover the kick starter (ie: Will a Racing Ignition Coil help??) Thanks!
Click to expand...
i thought vixion has only stage 1 cam?
is there really stage 2?
 
MickO_HCMC

MickO_HCMC

New Member
Johnny Tran said:
Hello guys, I'm new here and I only speak english so please help me if you can. My engine mods are:

UMA 62mm Block
30mm Carb with bigger jettings (not sure what size)
BRT CDI
Vixion Stage 2 Cams
AHM Pipe (newest model)

The problem now is that my bore is so big that it's hard to fire up using the electric starter so I have to frequently kick start but even that's a pain... My mechanics say that it's b/c I'm in high compression but I don't know what this means. Someone please explain to me what I can do so that I may use the electric starter again since I will be getting a full body fairing kit that will cover the kick starter (ie: Will a Racing Ignition Coil help??) Thanks!
Click to expand...
Had my bike modded about 2 months ago haven't had to kick start once, especially since using the shorai battery (starts as soon as you jab the starter), maybe the stage 2 cams you are using don't have decompression slot?
Current spec of my bike:
Yamaha Exciter (T135 in Vietnam) 183cc
UMA super-head (sport) 23mm inlet/20mm exhaust
UMA cam
63mm Malossi bore kit
Malossi Electric coolant pump
28mm PWK carb
Nology Pro-fire coil
nology Hotwire lead
Iridium spark plug
Shorai Lithium Ion battery
DNA airfilter (top cut out of air box)
Stainless header pipe (with modified standard muffler 33mm end bore)
Oil cooler (KTL Tecnic)
Stainless steel oil filter (FLO)
Racing clutch springs (Std. plates)
API Tech RCDI (fully programmable)
15F/41R sprockets
G@zi inverted front forks
300mm front disk (RB)
G@zi rear mono shock (damper and rebound adjust)
std. rear disk
std. wheel and tires (f & r)
 
MickO_HCMC

MickO_HCMC

New Member
docgabby said:
i installed a larger radiator and fan. its a three year old engine with about almost 7k kms on it. the longest distance it travelled is when i went to manila from legaspi about 600 plus kms. and back. i weigh 205lbs so i enjoy more of the torque than the full throttle speed. torque for overtaking and mountain passes. my old daily driver. still reliable after all these years of riding. actually the engine kit was sold to me by hispeed three years ago. its a setup they used at the malaysia sepang circuit. so they said it can be used for daily use. the block was built up in the sides to create a bigger area for coolant to circulate around the bore. the sleeve which is steel was built sturdy so no worry of sleeve rocking from side to side. a longer conrod was used for greater conrod to stroke ratio which improves reliability due to less cylinder wall rub as compared with s shorter conrod. 22in 19ex head, 6.2 hispeed cams, hispeed valve springs and retainers, wide ratio transmission, 28mm oval keihin carb. so everything was set up on the mild side and not on the wild side. View attachment 11576View attachment 11577View attachment 11578
Click to expand...
Hey docgabby
Which radiator did you use?

My current specs:
Yamaha Exciter (T135 in Vietnam) 183cc UMA super-head (sport) 23mm inlet/20mm exhaust
UMA cam
63mm Malossi bore kit
Malossi Electric coolant pump (standard radiator)
28mm PWK carb
Nology Pro-fire coil
nology Hotwire lead
Iridium spark plug
Shorai Lithium Ion battery
DNA airfilter (top cut out of air box)
Stainless header pipe (with modified standard muffler 33mm end bore)
Oil cooler (KTL Tecnic)
Stainless steel oil filter (FLO)
Racing clutch springs (Std. plates)
API Tech RCDI (fully programmable)
15F/41R sprockets
G@zi inverted front forks
300mm front disk (RB)
G@zi rear mono shock (damper and rebound adjust)
std. rear disk
std. wheel and tires (f & r)
 
z_ride13

z_ride13

New Member
We convert stock starter to make big bore e-start work..with consideration adjustments on 7 amps battery...Just to make sure it pumps up those real nasty big bores ..
 
Last edited:
S

sixty-thirty

Super Veteran
INSTRUCTION

ADVISABLE ONLY TO USE UMA RACING REINFORCED STARTER MOTOR WITH STOCK CDI UNIT. ENCOUNTERED ISSUE IF NOT FOLLOW INSTRUCTION: ENGINE DOES NOT START WHEN UR REINFORCED STARTER MOTOR IS REPLACED.



DIAGNOSIS REPORT





1. BATTERY CAPACITY 12V 3.5 AH AND DC-CDI’S PICK UP COIL RESISTANCE IS 248-372 OHM AT 20 OC ARE THE YAMAHA LC MANUFACTURER SPECIFICATIONS.
2. THE UMA RACING REINFORCED STARTER MOTOR IS DEVELOPED AND TESTED TO BE IN OPERATING CONDITION WITH THE BATTERY CAPACITY AND DC-CDI PICK UP COIL RESISTANCE BASED ON MANUFACTURER SPECIFICATIONS.
3. ENGINE DOES NOT START PROBLEM FOUND TO BE CAUSED BY AFTERMARKET CDI UNIT WHICH HAS A HIGHER RESISTANCE VALUE. AFTERSALES CDI UNIT REQUIRES MORE VOLTAGE TO START.
4. REINFORCED STARTER MOTOR AND CDI UNIT REQUIRES HIGHER CURRENT TO BE SUPPLIED TO RUN. BATTERY VOLTAGE DECREASED AND THIS CAUSES THE CDI UNIT TO NOT WORK UNDER SUCH LOW VOLTAGE CONDITION. HENCE, NOT ENOUGH CURRENT FOR SPARK TO OCCUR IN THE IGNITION SYSTEM.
 
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